Today was another cold and foggy start as we followed the torch light along the dark forest path after leaving beautiful Samos. Another great day of walking through interesting farming communities (lots of cows and dogs), with some very strong aromas. Our guide book author describes the sensory experience of this area far more eloquently that I can: ‘…rural Galicia at her best; wet and green with the sweet smell and squelch of liquid cow dung underfoot’. Amen to that.
We are staying in a new albergue here in the teeny tiny town of Ferreiros (where we were greeted on the way into the village by an ostrich – yes, really) and as I write, we are enjoying the still-warm evening sun at 6.30pm. Life is good!
Today was probably my favourite walking day so far – and that’s a very big call to make! We left by 6.30am and everything on the mountain was pitch black. A low fog hung around all morning, adding to the amazing atmosphere – especially as we first walked through a forest with only my torch app to guide us through the darkness. It was cold – the coldest I’ve been here – a refreshing wake up call til we stopped for coffee. There were also some steep inclines (albeit shorter than yesterday), which were a not-so-pleasant surprise – but given that there’s not really an alternative, the climbing mission was accomplished!
It felt as though we were the only ones out walking – at one stage, Andy and I saw what we thought was lightning up ahead…but it turned out to be two French dudes taking flash photos of a statue that we couldn’t really see, even with our torches.
We stopped for coffee and while we were in the tiny stone bar, the sun finally made its way up and everything became a lot brighter. Except the fog stayed low – making for some beautiful Celtic-style views as we walked through stunning countryside.
We took a different path to the guide book as we wanted to walk a longer day and get out of sync with the stages of the book (followed by approx 98% of pilgrims, I think) as we have generally had better experiences with towns and albergues that way. So, a 30km day took us to Samos – the view of the impressive monastery as we came down the hill made up for the tricky, rocky descent.
We’re expecting to make it to Santiago on Saturday – with two cushy, short days on Friday and Saturday to time our arrival for the morning. Tomorrow, we will pass through Sarria, the town that marks 100km to Santiago – and apparently the start of the mass pilgrimage, as it’s the shortest distance you can walk and still receive a Compostela (certificate) when you get to Santiago. Not looking forward to the expected crowds – we have been so fortunate to have had such a positive experience on our journey: hardly any pilgrim traffic jams as we walk or stop, always a place to stay and plenty of dining options. Hopefully, by staying off the guide book path we can hold on to this more intimate experience for a while longer!
With less than a week til our arrival in Santiago, everyone is starting to finalise their post-Camino plans. Steph, Andy and Chris will continue walking to Finisterre – an extra 3 days’ walk to the coast – which I would have loved to do, but the timing didn’t quite work as I am off to visit to my Dublin family for a week before heading home. I plan to catch the bus from Santiago to spend a day checking out Finisterre, to see what the ‘end of the earth’ actually looks like. Will be strange not to walk it, but that can wait til my next Camino!
Day 26 was a big challenge. Just as my clothes are getting a bit looser and I feel as though my strength and fitness are improving, the Camino throws in a hugely steep incline up to the cute medieval town of O’Cebreiro. Beautiful vistas through the woods (especially the early stages, with a smoky mist through the valley) and over the mountains, but a tough walk in the heat today and I was really focused on putting one foot in front of the other (as our friend Shane says of the Camino hills: ‘just don’t stop!’) as the sweat rolled down (in a sophisticated and ladylike manner, obviously). I was delighted to reach the top of the hill & the old walls of our first town in the region of Galicia.
Green, with changeable weather, beautiful farm land and lots of sheep and cows, the guide book says that this part of Spain has a very strong Celtic spirit – and judging by the music, scenery, design and vibe of this place, the book is right. To be sure, to be sure. Love it.
The albergue looks new – so new that they must have forgotten about the doors on the showers. Felt very European and liberated as I had no choice but to wash with only my short towel swinging from the empty curtain rail above me to give me some sense of cover. Those who know me well will appreciate what a big deal that was for me, as a conservative and private type: another Camino adventure!
The view from this albergue at the top of the hill more than makes up for it though – the pic below is from the common area, with the same view from bathroom and dorm room windows. It’s up there with the beauty of the scenery on the first days over the Pyrenees, for sure. Stunning.
Oh, and on the matter of looser clothes and improved fitness, people had suggested that we’d come home looking like waifs, but we’re so hungry after a day of walking that we’re eating quite a lot. I also like a pastry when we stop for coffee in the morning – a Napolitana is like the French pain au chocolat, only more chocolatey and much nicer – just to show my respect for the baking culture here, you understand. Snacks like chocolate, bread, cheese and potato chips are also on the agenda most afternoons as we chillax at our destination. Oh, and they have some very nice desserts too – and we pilgrims need our calcium for healthy walking bones! And not to forget the wine – delicious, cheap and refreshing chilled reds. It’s a holiday as well as a pilgrimage, after all!
Our day had an interesting beginning – walking behind two Italian men, leaving Ponferrada in the dark, an old lady in a pink tracksuit appeared and ran a bit to catch up with them. Speaking in rapid Spanish, she kept up and walked alongside them through the city streets. After a while, we realised that she was helping us find our way out of the city, taking short cuts here and there until we were safely out of town. Such a funny Camino experience – not sure if she turned back after we left to help the next batch of pilgrims get out of there!
We walked through some beautiful places today – vineyards, mountain views, stunning old towns, rivers & the ever-present bursts of colour from petunias and geraniums that brighten the streets – and ended around 30km in the hot sun, starting the big climb that we will finish tomorrow.
As Andy says every day (aside from the two-day stomach bug glitch), ‘today is a good day’. And it was.
Today, we were very excited to be reaching Cruz de Ferro, a true landmark of the Camino. We timed our arrival to coincide with the sunrise – and what an incredible experience it was. People bring stones and other bits and bobs (including photos of loved ones) from all over the world to add to the pile at the cross. You can read more about the story behind it somewhere else – Dave from Dublin told us it’s something about tipping the scales in your favour when sins are being weighed up on judgement day. Would’ve been good to know that before I chose my small stone from Bobbin Head (scene of so many of my favourite childhood picnics) in Sydney.
My stone carried the fingerprints and wishes of my Mom and my Dad and me, as we picked it together before I came away – it was pretty emotional being at that special place at dawn, thinking of my special peeps. Awesome.
A beautiful day of walking followed our special morning – stunning mountain scenes as we climbed, then lots of challenging rocky downhill runs.
And now we’re in the municipal albergue in Ponferrada – a great big place where you pay by donation, rather than a fixed rate, and we have our own room of four again. We had a HUGE late lunch at a nearby restaurant – cured ham, seafood pasta salad and pork chop things that made Andy nostalgic for Bavarian food. And tortilla & ratatouille for Chris. And lots of delicious chunky baked potato pieces for me.
I finish my meds tomorrow and my leg seems fine with painkillers, so all set for the last 200km into Santiago!
Oh, and today’s other sparks – a man with a spaghetti scarf (advertising pasta at a cafe) and churros-in-a-can at the local supermarket!